01 April 2025
8 mins Read
Public houses have been part of the Australian societal fabric since the late 18th century, when they were quickly established during colonisation. As well as a gathering place to enjoy a drink, the local pub traditionally provided a range of social services such as accommodation and postal services, and doubled as a meeting place for business, recruiting stations in wartime and refuges during civil emergencies.
Merrijig Inn in Port Fairy is one of Victoria’s oldest pubs, built in the mid-1800s. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Today, there are around 7000 pubs in the country, many of which have been around for centuries and are now classified heritage-listed buildings. There is still a place in our collective heart for a good old-fashioned pub with layers of untouched history, but for the past few years, a pub revival has been brewing.
“Pubs can’t afford to stand still,” says Stephen Ferguson, CEO of Australian Hotels Association. “The industry has become far more sophisticated. People’s tastes have changed, expectations have increased.”
The Art Deco-style Hotel Gosford pays homage to its 1920s roots. (Image: Kitti Gould)
One by one, these ageing establishments are being painstakingly restored and updated; old venues are being gutted and modernised, and heritage elements are being discovered under mismatched wallpapers and gaudy carpets. The modern-day Aussie pub has thoughtful and quality aesthetics combined with top-notch and sustainable food and extensive beverage offerings.
Sydney-based design and construction company Warrane specialises in hospitality venues, particularly Australian pubs, a niche that developed as a response to growing market demand. “Over time, we honed our expertise in refurbishing pubs, blending heritage with contemporary design to create vibrant social spaces,” says marketing, brand and sales manager, Matt Dampney. “We have a deep understanding of pub culture. They need to stay relevant, engage with the community and there’s a renewed focus on food and beverage.”
The company has overseen the transformations of big-name Sydney pubs such as Coogee Bay Hotel and Hotel Steyne in Manly but also specialises in regional and historic venues, including The Courthouse Hotel, Tamworth, and currently The Federal Hotel, Alstonville. “Pub owners want high-quality finishes and a balance of modernisation while maintaining the venue’s unique character, through restored facades, original timberwork and historic signage,” says Dampney.
Hotel Gosford on NSW’s Central Coast is a heritage-listed 1920s building that was given a staggering glow-up in 2022. “It was the biggest and boldest renovation Hotel Gosford has ever experienced,” says marketing manager Chelsea Berman. The planning took a decade, with the brief centred around the history of the building and the outcome a sleek, Art Deco-style design. Berman says the hotel has since seen a shift in visitation, with many patrons now coming from farther and wider to drink and dine.
The Rockley Pub is worth a stop for its elevated pub fare. (Image: Destination NSW)
Aside from good looks, Stephen Ferguson of AHA says the industry’s food offering has had the biggest shake-up, with pubs catering to diversified tastes. “People will travel for good food,” he says. “There’s still a classic schnitty and parmi – or parma, depending on where you come from – but now you can go to the pub with your family and get a five-star meal.”
It’s a far cry from the traditional counter meal that would have comprised free bread and cheese or cheap bangers and mash. Nowadays, well-known chefs are taking over pub kitchens (such as Matt Moran and The Rockley Pub in country NSW), fine dining is replacing classic pub meals (think The Royal Mail Hotel in Victoria) and global flavours are part of the experience. Take The Australian Hotel Ballina, whose 2024 transformation included the addition of a Mexican Cantina. “The modern pub experience is about balancing tradition with contemporary expectations, offering a space that feels both familiar and exciting,” says licensee and general manager Anton Green.
The local pub is a place for the community to thrive. (Image: The Gardiner Hotel/Griffin Simm)
But at the core of any pub is the community. “We provide a place for people to connect and unwind, while also supporting local events, live music, sports clubs and charities, fostering a sense of belonging and community spirit,” says Green. “It’s more than just a business, it’s part of Ballina’s identity.”
Stephen Ferguson agrees that the role of a pub in the community is crucial and hasn’t changed all that much since the 18th century. “Regional pubs are especially crucial in times of crisis, such as floods and bushfires. The pub becomes the centre of everything, often with the town’s only phone line or generator,” he says. “In cities, pubs next to railway stations, where people can drop in after work for a drink, are really socially important to the community.”
The pub is an institution that has outlasted wars, strict laws from the Temperance Movement (that caused the Six O’Clock Swill), the GFC and the pandemic – and the recent trend of pub revivals is a sign they’ll be part of our culture for centuries to come.
The Denmark Hotel recently underwent a transformation. (Image: Nic Duncan)
Acting as a de facto town hall, this classic coastal pub has been a main character in Denmark’s story for almost a century. Its recent transformation exposed the hotel’s charming original green bricks, Jarrah floorboards and heritage fireplaces. The bistro menu is centred around ingredients sourced from local growers and producers and the new boutique bottle shop stocks an impressive range of local wines. The complete stylish overhaul of its 24-room lodge encourages visitors to linger longer.
Hotel Sorrento on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula received a glow-up in early 2025. (Image: Kate Shanasy)
The iconic 1872-built Hotel Sorrento on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula reopened earlier this year after an ultra-chic transformation. Its all-new rooftop with sea views has just been unveiled oozing a Saint Tropez-inspired vibe with a fully retractable roof for sun-drenched days, a fireplace for winter, a curated wine and cocktail list, and a rolling line-up of DJs.
The Gardiner Hotel balances its heritage charm with contemporary spaces. (Image: Griffin Simm)
A former bank building in Melbourne’s suburb of Malvern has been transformed into The Gardiner Hotel, a contemporary social hang-out that embraces the 1915 property’s rich history. Within the refreshed white façade, you’ll find a charming ground-floor bistro with heritage-style tiling and panelling and a sun-drenched rooftop for languid afternoon bevvies.
The newly opened Espy Sunroom offers a lovely location for long lunches. (Image: Griffin Simm)
A landmark of Melbourne’s beachside suburb for almost 150 years, The Espy has had many transformations. Its latest addition is the Espy Sunroom, a new and expansive space with a laidback, rustic aesthetic. With hanging greenery and a terrace featuring a retractable roof, it makes for a perfect spot for long lunches year-round. Seafood is a hero on the menu, but pub classics and woodfired stone pizzas are also served.
The century-old Hotel Gosford was revamped in 2022. (Image: Kitti Gould)
A cornerstone of the Central Coast for almost a century, this heritage-listed waterhole underwent a stunning revamp and extension in 2022. Its brooding Art Deco design pays homage to its 1926 roots, with rich dark timbers, ambient lighting, brass accents and leather seating. Earl’s Kitchen features an Asian-inspired menu, and its extensive beverage list features 32 tap beers, a whisky vault with optional whisky flights, and creative cocktails, including seven types of margaritas.
The Australian Hotel Ballina has been thoughtfully updated to retain its original charm. (Image: Marissa M)
In 2024, this century-old pub was given a very cool reno with the motto “restoring a classic”. Original timber work and structural beams were exposed, and a large timber bar was built with fixed bar stools, echoing a traditional pub counter where you can enjoy a drink and a yarn. Enjoy live music outside in the festooned beer garden and fresh, authentic Mexican street food as an alternative to pub classics.
Feast on American-style pub classics. (Image: Arkaba Hotel)
This Adelaide hotel has been pouring beers since 1966. In 2023, a huge $12 million was poured into its redevelopment – at its centre, a striking 360-degree bar with a wraparound LED TV and an elegant dining room featuring warm timbers and soft lighting. Dine on the modern Australian menu with pub classics or nab a table in the indoor-outdoor sports bar and feast on the American-style menu.
The coastal pub doubles as a community hub.
A staggering $380 million was injected into the resurrection of this 1956-founded institution. The ground-level pub was designed with the local surfing community in mind, with memorabilia, vintage photography, lifesaving caps and surfboards gracing the walls. The new hotel also features a swanky bar and luxury accommodation upstairs but has kept a relaxed salty-skin, sandy-feet vibe.
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