What it’s like to stay at Lord Howe Island’s most exclusive resort

With its remote location, pristine environment, and restricted visitor numbers, UNESCO heritage listed Lord Howe Island is a dream destination for many, with Capella Lodge its most coveted resort.

Lord Howe Island is exclusive by its very nature. Positioned in the Tasman Sea, approximately 600km from the east coast of mainland Australia, the remote island paradise that’s been likened to Hawaii and labelled the ‘Galapagos of the South’ is rich with unique flora and fauna, and bountiful marine life contained within the world’s southernmost coral reef.

Caps to visitor numbers keep it this way but also ensure enough resources to sustain both island residents and holidaymakers alike. Because of this, accommodation styles are boutique and in high demand, especially Lord Howe Island’s most premium resort offering, Capella Lodge.

One of five luxurious Baillie Lodges dotted around Australia, and one of nine throughout the world, Capella Lodge aims to provide guests with a first-class connection to Lord Howe Island’s unique surrounds.

But what’s it really like to stay there? I checked into the resort’s Catalina suite to find out.

Location

Be surrounded by secluded coves, beautiful peaks and beaches on Lord Howe Island.

Located at the far southwest of the island, which measures just 11km long and 2.8km at its widest point, Capella Lodge is positioned about as close to the foot of Lord Howe Island’s iconic peaks as you can get to appreciate the full majesty of Mount Lidgebird and Mount Gower.

Its elevated position on the hillside above ‘Lovers Bay’, means there are spectacular views of the South Pacific Ocean as well as neighbouring green pastures below.

Upon arrival, I acquaint myself with these views further on Gower’s Terrace – the deck area of the resort’s restaurant and bar. Welcome refreshments include a cold face towel scented with essential oils and a glass of champagne, though I opt for some fresh mango juice which is brought to me with some chicken and vegetable rice paper rolls.

Afterwards, I rise from my sunlounger to take a dip in the plunge pool, where I gaze out to lush kentia palms covering the mountainsides and surf breaking over the lagoon’s coral reef. It’s a communal space on the terrace, but expansive views plus only a handful of other guests about make it feel like I have the whole place to myself. 

Style and character

A stay at Capella Lodge will reward you with absolute bliss.

Inspired by the classic Aussie beach house and conceived by architect Justin Long in collaboration with interior architects Pike Withers, Capella Lodge’s design is light-filled and free flowing, with floor-to-ceiling windows, rustic timbers, and a blue and while colour scheme throughout. Inside, you’ll find works by Mambo artist Bruce Goold and handprinted fabrics and woodcuts by Julie Paterson.

It’s a theme that extends to the resort’s nine barefoot luxury suites which are separated from the main pavilion by boardwalks and tropical gardens. On the way to my suite, I spot an outdoor shower in one of these garden nooks – perfect for washing off sand after a trip to the beach.

The atmosphere here is also blissfully relaxed and without any of the stuffiness you might expect from a resort that comes with a price tag ranging from $1,900 to $4,800 a night.

The room

The beach house-style Catalina Suite opens up to a lush balcony.

Suites at Capella Lodge range from introductory Capella Suites through to the resort’s top offering, Lidgebird Pavilion.

I’m staying in the Catalina Suite, which is split over two levels. Though perfect for families or groups of friends, I enjoy the extra space as I flit between upstairs and downstairs like one of the golden whistlers in the garden.

Upstairs, the loft-style bedroom comes with a king bed and an ensuite bathroom with products including handmade local soaps and Capella Spa toiletries. But it’s the prime views of the lagoon and Mounts Lidgebird and Gower that leave me awestruck. Plush armchairs positioned by the Juliet balcony entice you to linger here longer.

Step outside for a soothing dip in a hot tub surrounded by kentia palms.

Downstairs, there’s a second bedroom, a larger basalt stone bathroom with a rain shower, and a lounge area flowing to a decked courtyard. The outdoor space comes with daybeds and a hot tub surrounded by kentia palms, and after my full-day hike up Mount Gower the day before, I happily spend a few hours here, soaking tired muscles with a glass of Tasmanian sparkling. Along with other alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks from my in-room bar, there are goodies like freshly baked mini lemon meringues and chocolate chip Capella Cookies. My kitchenette also comes with other complimentary inclusions like gourmet cheeses, crackers, nuts, and herbal teas.

The Capella Suite has a private deck that serves as a stylish refuge.

Like all Capella Lodge suites, mine comes with specially designed beds by AH Beard, a TV, a music system, wi-fi, a telephone with free calls anywhere in Australia, and a nightly ‘turndown’ service. It’s a lovely touch that adds an element of surprise when I return from dinner to find my room refreshed and the wonderful aroma that wafts from an oil burner glowing beneath dimmed lights.

Facilities

Revel in commanding views over Lovers Bay and the twin peaks.

You won’t find a gym at Capella Lodge, but I’m told you don’t need one as the whole island is a playground. You will find a plunge pool on the Gower Terrace though, and a range of relaxing and rejuvenating island-inspired treatments at Capella Spa. Following my post-hike hot tub soak, the Melody Massage using Australian-made alkeme products is heaven for shoulders and calves.

Filled with books, board games, a fireplace, and sublime views, Kentia Lounge is perfect for those wanting to relax or socialise with other guests indoors, while for those who want outdoor adventure, Capella Lodge offers complimentary mountain bikes or e-bike and e-buggy hire for exploring the island.

Soak up panoramic views of the island while lazing on sunloungers.

Backpacks and beach towels are also provided in suites for guest use, while beach umbrellas and chairs are available on request from reception.

With an Island Expeditions service offered at an extra charge, Capella Lodge can also provide a packed lunch to take on a hike or tour. Likewise, ready-made picnics or BBQ packs are available for those wanting to use the BBQ facilities dotted throughout the island.

I decide to go snorkelling at Ned’s Beach and opt to have my snorkel and fins delivered ahead of me, which makes my bike ride light and easy.

Complimentary airport transfers are available for guests, and there’s the option for chartered flights from the mainland at an extra cost.

Food and drink

The restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows that deliver dramatic views of Lord Howe Island.

At sunset, I make my way to Capella Bar for the full selection of drinks and canapes included in guest rates. I choose a gin and tonic made with gin from the island’s distiller, Lord Howe Island Distilling Co. I then make my way to Gower’s Terrace to mingle with other guests before moving inside for dinner.

With a menu that changes daily, Capella Restaurant combines fresh island seafood and specialties with regional produce from the mainland. With the option to choose from an a la carte menu or four courses with matching wine, I opt for the latter and enjoy dishes curated by Capella Lodge’s executive chef, Dennis Tierney.

The menu combines fresh island seafood and specialties with regional produce.

Paired with a riesling from the Clare Valley, I start with scallop ceviche with sepia pearls, edamame and coconut, followed by a watermelon salad served with pistachio, pomegranate, rosewater, labneh and nasturtium. It’s an interesting clash of textures and flavours that somehow works just perfectly. My main is pork loin served with leek, pear, snake beans, and nasturtium. It’s paired wonderfully with an aged Tasmanian Cabernet Merlot. Finally, dessert is a mixture of chocolate, caramel and peanut, served in a shell of puffed rice. I can’t fault a thing and, feeling completely satisfied, I drift back to my suite.

I return the next morning, where breakfast consists of a choice of fresh daily juice or a specialty smoothie, lodge-baked pastries and fruits, and a choice from the a la carte selection. I go for fresh orange juice, granola with kiwi fruit yoghurt and poached eggs on sourdough with smoked bacon and slow roasted tomatoes, followed by a flat white made from coffee by Di Lorenzo.

Is Capella Lodge family-friendly?

The lodge boasts unbeatable views of the island. (Image: James Vodicka)

Capella Lodge doesn’t cater for families with young children, but kids over 10 are welcome. Notably, the resort’s Catalina suite is perfect for families with the second bedroom on the ground floor giving options for king or twin beds.

Access for guests with disabilities?

Not specifically designed for people with disabilities, Capella Lodge’s suites are accessed via a boardwalk with stairs along the way. Guests with mobility limitations are advised to book the single-level Capella Suite. The main lodge, restaurant and outdoor terrace are on a single level.

Details

Best for: Couples, nature enthusiasts

Address: Lagoon Rd, Lord Howe Island

Cost: From $1900 per night