12 July 2024
5 mins Read
A mere 90 minutes or so in the car north of Adelaide, the Clare Valley (luckily!) still scoots just under the radar. This laid-back pocket makes an unhurried retreat of Aussie bush and rolling vineyards, stone buildings and intriguing history, cellar doors, good food, bike trails and country hospitality. Here’s how to make the most of it.
The Clare Valley has no shortage of fantastic eateries. If you’re looking for a winery lunch, venture down a sun-dappled back road that leads past vines curving away on the slopes of hills (‘planted to the contour’ in vigneron speak) to the 1860s cottage of Skillogalee; a winery, restaurant and cellar door. Slate slabs cool the wisteria-draped verandah and there are tables beneath the sprawliest-ever olive. Indulge in fresh black pasta with Port Lincoln sand crab followed by Estate Muscat with vanilla ice cream.
Another food option is to join the savvy locals at Seed Winehouse + Kitchen, where the menu (slow-cooked lamb shank with lemon pepper couscous, or fettuccini Brussel pasta) has a similar farm-to-fork freshness. And the bar has a real buzz.
When the sun’s shining and there’s that crackle of heat in the bleached grass, cruising along on a bike is like being a kid again. The 35-kilometre Riesling Trail rail is peppered with postcard views, wineries, cafes and plenty of signage along the looping route; Watervale to Penwortham is rated one of the prettiest sections. You can hire bikes at Auburn, Clare and Sevenhill.
Not down to cycle? No worries! Pack a picnic basket and stroll for a while before tossing down your rug under a shady tree.
Riesling aficionadas will love clos Clare Wines in Watervale and Crabtree Wines. Stop by the region’s oldest vineyard, the Jesuit-run Sevenhill, which started in the 1850s and is still going strong. The quirky Mad Bastard Wines specialises in Shiraz. For wine with sweeping scenery, lunch on the deck at Paulett Wines. For art with your wine visit Pikes.
There are approximately 50 wineries in the region, but it’s not all wine. Craft beer and cider are bubbling up. Try the Tonic Ale (with lemon peel and ginger) from Pikes Beer Company.
The tiny town of Mintaro has spades of character in its timeworn slate buildings, vast Moreton Bay fig trees and old-world gardens. Visit Mintaro Maze if you have the kids in tow, or delve into the past at the palace in a paddock, Martindale Hall, where the ’70s classic Picnic at Hanging Rock was filmed.
We also recommend sharing a lazy lunch at Reilly’s Wines. Nibble on gourmet platters in the leafy courtyard that boasts vineyard views.
Burra’s wide streets, stone buildings, and tree-lined creek are a backdrop for country folk in cowboy boots and battered hats, and grey nomads stopping en route to the Flinders Ranges. You can get your urban-fix coffee at St Just Café or enjoy a veritable tea party at colourful Good Golly Miss Polly. For organic juices and wraps head to Burra Fresh, while several shops are piled with collectables, curios, and gifts for those who like to fossick. Art lovers should swing by the Burra Regional Art Gallery, housed within a restored 1860 Post and Telegraph Office.
Just a half-hour drive from the valley will take you to the breathtaking Lake Bumbunga. This picturesque salt lake flies under the tourist radar, yet it’s one of South Australia’s most exquisite natural phenomena. There’s a viewing platform at the edge of the lake so you can admire the lake and snap some envy-worthy photos. Keep an eye out for the “Loch-Eel Monster” sculpture.
A swag of heritage cottages and houses are dotted all around the Clare. There’s Watervale’s upmarket Stanley Grammar Country House, converted stables at historic Bungaree Station, original miners’ cottages in Burra and even the stylish loft-style Irongate Studio B&B in Mintaro.
You are whetting my appetite for our projected visit in Oct 25