13 February 2023
12 mins Read
Though it’s only 45 minutes from the centre of Adelaide, McLaren Vale feels like another world thanks to the pristine coastline and rolling hills studded with vines that give off serious Mediterranean vibes (only with better beaches).
When you’re done touring the 80 cellar doors (not to mention the growing number of award-winning breweries and distilleries), fine dining restaurants and cafes, you’ll discover a region bursting at the seams with thrilling outdoor adventures and immersive family-friendly activities.
So whether you’re craving a relaxing beachside break with the kids or a seriously luxe gourmet getaway, here are the best things to do in McLaren Vale.
With food and wine this good, it’d be a crime not to indulge.
Whether you’re into shiraz or sangiovese (or both), you can choose your own adventure thanks to the incredible range of award-winning wineries in McLaren Vale. And it’s not just what’s in the glass that’s important; sip emerging varietals while watching the sunset from a converted church at Berg Herring, learn the benefits of biodynamics firsthand at Gemtree or join a young gun winemaker at Aphelion as he pours his favourite drops in a vineyard overlooking the entire region.
McLaren Vale isn’t just a wine region; look between the vineyards and you’ll find fields of golden barley waiting to be harvested, along with a thriving community of local brewers making sure that grain gets as much love as the grape. They range in size from the brand new Vale Brewing taphouse at the centre of a vast complex with its own restaurant and luxury accommodation to small, family-owned operations where the brewers are on hand to pour easy-drinking beach beers and punchy hop bombs.
In the early days of the industry, nearly every large winery had its own still to create brandy and spirit for the fortified wines that were popular at the time. And while those industrial operations have disappeared from the region, recent years have seen a growing number of craft distillers base themselves in the Vale with a mission to add a little flair to the distilling process. The result is a panoply of complex spirits, from tea-based “breakfast gin” and the World’s Best London Dry Gin to distinguished small-batch single malts.
Whether you’re after a light lunch at a cellar door or a 10-course degustation with matched wines, the Vale has something to sate every appetite. Taiwanese, Italian and Southeast Asian chefs showcase their native culinary traditions at fine diners where the produce is picked each morning before service, but more casual options like Harry’s Deli are equally committed to highlighting affordable growers and makers.
Don’t be surprised if you see some of those chefs at the Saturday morning Willunga Farmer’s Market, where more than 80 stalls sell fresh farm produce and artisan foodstuffs. Seasonal fruit and vegetables share space with more unusual items like fresh buffalo mozzarella and alpaca mettwurst, and the buskers ensure there’s a lively energy to the markets, which finish at noon (though some of the more popular stalls sell out early).
It doesn’t matter whether you’re filling your glass with wine, gin or beer; there’s always a cheese pairing that will make that drink taste even better. If you’re in a rush you can grab a wheel or two from one of the local dairies, but it’s worth making the time to learn the secrets of cheesemaking at The SloWhey School of Cheese. Slow living and sustainable practices are a key part of the house philosophy that teaches you how to make your own mozzarella, halloumi or camembert – and how to appreciate it.
See the region at its natural best.
Most of the country’s other wine regions are bounded by hills on both sides, but McLaren Vale has kilometres of incredible beaches that begin within spitting distance of the vineyards. The broad sands of drive-on Aldinga Beach make it a family favourite, while nearby Port Willunga is a scenic beauty with several caves dug into the limestone cliffs and a shipwreck that can be explored at low tide.
At Sellicks Beach, the roar of the incoming surf is joined by the sound of countless pebbles rolling over each other or you can let it all hang out at the clothing-optional Maslin Beach.
The deep gorge carved out by the Onkaparinga River marks the northern edge of McLaren Vale and the surrounding national park includes a network of easily accessible walking trails. The shortest of them is the Punchbowl Lookout Trail which leads to a dramatic viewing platform gazing out over bright orange cliffs that plunge towards the bottom of the gorge. For a longer excursion, follow one of several paths down through open woodland to the river, where the twang of banjo frogs and chatter of colourful birdlife rings out over a flourishing wetland.
The owners of Gemtree Winery have planted more than 50,000 native trees and shrubs on their property and a stroll along their Eco Trail is a great way to immerse yourself in nature. But you’ll need some help from a local to really appreciate the cultural significance of this place. Once a month, Ngarrindjeri elder Mark Koolmatrie share his stories of the land and its importance in the Wuldi Cultural Experience, providing a unique chance to commune with Country in the presence of a traditional owner.
Onkaparinga National Park isn’t just a prime spot for bushwalking; sheer walls of 750 million-year-old quartzite also present an epic challenge for prospective rock climbers. There are hundreds of routes near Pink Gum Campground if you already know what you’re doing, or if you need a little help you can join one of the regular Earth Adventure and learn how to climb up to 30 metres high while surrounded by native forest filled with koalas, kangaroos and echidnas.
Make memories that will last a lifetime.
The daily 11:30 feeding at Woodstock winery draws a regular crowd, but don’t expect any wine on the menu. Instead, it’s a chance to meet some of the rescue kangaroos that now call the onsite wildlife sanctuary home. Once you’ve finished feeding Eden, Maple, Prairie and Dusty, take a look around and you might also spot a friendly emu named Maverick and several sleepy koalas enjoying the good life.
McLaren Vale is the kind of place where it’s easy to leave your worries behind, but if you want to lose yourself entirely the best place is Maxwell Winery’s mind-bending maze. Hundreds of tightly packed conifers create a bewildering labyrinth that the kids will have a ball exploring, and you can join them or grab a bottle of wine to enjoy in the neighbouring picnic area.
Sure, you’ll find a few locals heading to the Jungle in Willunga to pick up bamboos, palms and ferns for their backyard. But most of the visitors to this sprawling nursery are busy pretending they’re intrepid explorers on a remote rainforest expedition. Make sure you pick up an Animal Hunt checklist on the way in, so you can record all of the life-size animals hidden along the jungle boardwalk, and bring a snack to enjoy in the magical Fairy Fern Garden when you’re done.
Take to the skies – or the waters – to see the Vale from a different angle.
Anyone with even a passing interest in the golden age of aviation will be charmed by the vintage aircraft at Adelaide Biplanes. Once the sightseeing tours take off from Aldinga Airfield, you’ll be able to hear the roar of the engine and feel the wind in your hair as you zoom above vineyards and coast in an open cockpit. And if for some reason that’s not enough of a thrill, you can always sign up for an aerobatic joy flight and do your best to hold on while the pilot tests your mettle with a series of rolls, loops and hammerheads.
If you don’t feel like driving but still want to explore the region, hire a bike from the visitors’ centre and tackle the eight-kilometre Shiraz Trail that runs through the centre of the valley. With a gentle gradient and no cars, it’s a stress-free ride that passes between broad paddocks and lush vineyards while connecting dozens of wineries. And if you’ve still got energy in those legs when you’re done, you can always keep going on the longer 35-kilometre Coast to Vines Rail Trail.
The sheltered waters of Gulf St Vincent might not appeal to big wave surfers, but their loss is a big win for stand-up paddleboarders. Get some lessons or hire a board from SUP Down South and explore the coastline around Port Willunga, or take things up a notch with a stand-up yoga class on the water. And if you want to combine watersports with other activities, Gone AWOL runs a day tour with the lot that includes a paddleboarding lesson at the mouth of the Onkaparinga River, an e-bike ride and a few wine tastings.
Just as you need to step back from a mosaic to truly appreciate it, McLaren Vale’s patchwork of vineyards, farmland and bush looks even better when viewed from above. Getting up to 9000 to 15000 feet lets you take in the entire region (and see all the way from the city of Adelaide to Kangaroo Island) before you hop out of the plane for an unforgettable skydiving adventure. Once the parachute opens, you’ll have six minutes to watch the scenery getting closer before your instructor steers you to a field surrounded by vineyards where you can celebrate with a glass of wine and a grazing board.
Let your imagination run wild at these creative hotspots.
When rainy days strike, there are plenty of indoor things to do in McLaren Vale, and the name of the Alternate Realities Museum is the first giveaway that this is not your average cultural institution. The contemporary gallery on the ground floor of the d’Arenberg Cube is a fever dream of Monty Python-esque animations, surreal portraits of the larger-than-life owner and a “virtual fermenter”. There’s also an exhibition of works by Dali and his admirers on the second floor, and even the toilets are memorable (you’ve been warned), as is the harlequin furniture in the top-floor tasting room.
With a former member of Empire Of The Sun as the booker, it’s no surprise that Big Easy Radio brings the noise for regular Friday night and Sunday afternoon gigs. The proximity to Adelaide means it’s easy for the city’s best musicians to make the trip down and the shed stage draws a good crowd of locals and visitors keen to see everything from raucous blues rockers and sultry soul troubadours to modern jazz quintets.
On the grounds of Hardy’s Tintara on McLaren Vale’s main street, Fleurieu Arthouse is a vibrant arts hub that includes a gallery, cafe and studios for working artists. Grab a glass from the cellar door and browse the onsite shop for a unique souvenir, or get your creative juices flowing at one of the regular jewellery, painting and photographic workshops. If you want to combine the two, you can even join a casual paint-and-sip session led by one of the resident artists.
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