22 May 2024
8 mins Read
The Flinders Ranges is a place of overwhelming natural beauty, where powerful tectonic forces have created tortured ridgelines, soaring cliffs and winding creekbeds lined by majestic river red gums. But for those in the know, it’s also a surprisingly accessible destination.
In the very heart of this rust-red mountain range five hours north of Adelaide lies the 12,000-hectare Rawnsley Park Station. Separated from Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park by the forbidding sandstone walls of Ikara (Wilpena Pound), its central location makes it an ideal base from which to explore the surrounding region.
The property has been a working sheep station since the mid-19th century, but the arrival of the first cabins on the property in 1968 brought tourism to the Flinders Ranges and Rawnsley Park Station has been a leader in the sector ever since. Today visitors can enjoy some of the best camping, dining and luxury accommodation options in the Flinders Ranges, as well as a range of activities that bring you to the very heart of this ancient landscape.
You wouldn’t know from the drive in, but Rawnsley Park Station can accommodate 800 guests at a range of sites tucked discreetly into the vegetation. Four levels of accommodation offer something to suit every budget, from bush camping to basic cabins and hilltop eco-villas that look out over the surrounding mountains.
Positioned on a small knoll looking out over the Chace and Elder Ranges, eight galah-pink eco villas boast outlooks that will turn any guest into an amateur photographer. A roomy deck and windows on three sides maximise the views, while skylights allow you to enjoy the clear night skies from bed.
Tall pitched ceilings and an open living area create a sense of space, while the use of timber and galvanised iron for internal walls honours the property’s heritage as a sheep station. With rainwater tanks and solar power as well as a chemical-free cleaning regime, the naturally insulated straw bale houses also boast plenty of eco credentials.
Those in search of an even more secluded option can enjoy a taste of outback luxury at this two-bedroom homestead built from local stone. Two stylish living areas, a well-equipped kitchen and spacious dining room mean there’s plenty of space to spread out inside, but the al fresco barbecue area and swimming pool that look straight out to the rugged rock wall of Rawnsley Bluff provide a good excuse to spend most of your time outside.
Conveniently located just a short walk from the Woolshed Restaurant, these self-contained units with kitchen and outdoor deck are perfect for travellers on a budget. The one- and three-bedroom Standard Holiday Units include wheelchair-accessible options, while the more spacious one- and two-bedroom Superior Holiday Units have a modern open-plan layout. Guests have access to communal picnic areas with barbecues and a shared swimming pool, and the cabins are also pet-friendly.
An array of powered and unpowered sites are nestled in the native pine and river red gums around Rawnsley’s camp kitchen and licensed shop, but those looking for a more secluded experience can also venture further out to one of the numerous bush camps. Many sites include fire pits (firewood is available from the shop), and there’s a dog minding service if you want to visit the neighbouring National Park.
The towering rock wall that separates Rawnsley Park Station from Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park means that you can enjoy spectacular views from anywhere on the property. But you’ll need to get out and explore to truly appreciate the scale of this natural playground that offers rich rewards for those venturing out on foot, in a 4WD or even by air.
The only way to truly grasp the majesty of the region is to see it from above, and this tour gives you a chance to see Ikara and the surrounding ranges unfold from a helicopter before landing atop the rugged Chace Range. You can find a spot to admire the sunset while a guide sets up your swag and cooks a camp oven dinner, then fall asleep under a glittering blanket of stars before enjoying a bush breakfast as the landscape slowly refills with colour.
Seven purpose-built walking trails stretch across the property, from gentle 45-minute strolls linking lookout points at Kangaroo Gap and Alison Saddle to a strenuous five-hour return hike up to the highest point on the property. The 943-metre-high Rawnsley Bluff looks like an impassable barrier from ground level, but make it to the top of the sandstone plateau and you’ll be rewarded with views that seem to stretch on forever over the broad red plain and surrounding ranges. If you prefer not to strike out on your own, there are also several daily group hikes.
Confident drivers can head off-road in neighbouring Arkapena Station, but those who prefer to stick to the tarmac can still see some of the region’s more secluded spots on a 4WD tour. Buckle up and enjoy the rollercoaster ride as a Landcruiser jumps over rocky ridges and sandy creek beds while a guide takes you through gorges filled with yellow-footed rock wallabies, shows you what daily life on a working sheep station looks like or brings you to a vantage point for a spectacular sunset accompanied by a glass of sparkling and canapes.
Rising abruptly in the centre of the Flinders Ranges like a dormant volcano, Ikara is one of outback Australia’s most striking sights. It catches the eye from every angle but is at its most spectacular when it’s illuminated by the golden rays of the rising sun.
Watch the landscape come to life on an early morning flight, then continue north to see the landscape of dramatic cockscomb ridges and steep gorges give way to ranks of deep red sand dunes and shimmering salt pans including Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre, where periodic floods attract thousands of birds from across the country.
The 900-kilometre Mawson Trail is one of Australia’s most epic long-distance bike rides and it passes directly through Rawnsley Park Station, but you don’t need to commit to a multi-day adventure to enjoy riding on the property. Part of the trail has been turned into a loop that links the main areas on site, while all of the station’s access roads and tracks can also be used by cyclists.
The remoteness of the Flinders Ranges means that it pays to plan ahead when it comes to meals, but guests at Rawnsley Park Station can take advantage of one of the region’s best dining options without having to leave the property.
A vintage wool press in the corner of the Woolshed Restaurant nods to the station’s original raisin d’être and it’s no surprise that lamb is the hero of the menu. If you can’t decide between succulent skewers, sticky sweet ribs and hearty racks, opt for the mega-sized platter that includes four different cuts. The modern Australian menu also makes room for other local proteins including saltbush-crumbed kangaroo steak and goat curry along with a decent selection of South Australian beers and wines.
Takeaway pizzas provide a more casual option, while self-caterers can pick up barbecue packs to cook up at their leisure. The onsite store also carries some essentials, otherwise, it’s a half-hour drive to Hawker’s General Store.
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