26 May 2023
23 mins Read
Travelling with: Sue Wallace
Victoria’s high country town Mount Beauty sits at the base of the ski resort village of Falls Creek and is well deserving of longer stays rather than just refuelling before heading up the mountain.
The pretty town named after its looks – there’s a stack of Insta-worthy vistas that stop you in your tracks – was purpose-built by Victoria’s State Electricity Commission in 1949 for the Kiewa Hydroelectric Scheme employees.
Located 30 minutes from Bright, lucky locals say it’s a dream place to live, with skiing and snowboarding on offer in winter and mountain biking and bushwalking in summer. A dip in the shady swimming holes of the meandering Kiewa River is popular as temperatures hike and you can cast a line in at Lake Guy and Mount Beauty Pondage, where brown trout, rainbow trout and redfin swim.
Bogong Horseback Adventures takes novice and experienced riders to discover the riches of the Alpine National Park’s pristine countryside and the state’s highest mountain, Mt Bogong, casts its shadow – check out the stunning views from Sullivans Lookout.
Fans of mountain biking can ride the trails extensively developed for national competition and there is also great cycling around the area. Walking tracks zigzag around, including the 21-kilometre Mt Bogong Loop, the 5.5-kilometre Kiewa River Trail and the four-kilometre Mount Beauty Gorge Walk.
At nearby Tawonga, owner-chef Emma Handley stars at Templar Lodge, once a Masonic hall, showcasing regional produce in innovative dishes. Food vans such as Kitchen 95 serve hearty snacks like roast beef rolls. Thirsty? Crank Handle Brewery crafts refreshing brews such as Dangerous Dave’s Lager and Grass Valley is the place to go for good coffee and local wine.
There’s a laid-back country feel to Mount Beauty with a dose of accelerated energy –refuel and linger.
Travelling with: Imogen Eveson
The small town of Nagambie is experiencing a boom as Melburnians clue on to its lakeside allure just a stone’s throw from the city and a suite of new offerings enticing them to stay awhile.
Head out of town for just over an hour to hit the wineries, fertile plains and sparkling waterways of this spot on the Goulburn River to check into boutique digs at Mitchelton, sip gin by the water at Nagambie Brewery and Distillery and pull up a seat at intimate restaurant and wine bar Eighteen Sixty.
Now, the Taungurung Land and Waters Council has just launched its new cultural experiences business wawa biik meaning ‘Hello Country’. It will see Taungurung Elders and youth leading immersive cultural experiences that celebrate and regenerate their living culture across various locations in Taungurung Country, Central Victoria, including the waterways of Tahbilk Wetlands in Nagambie.
Travelling with: Jo Stewart
Some visitors to Melbourne might have hopped on a No. 19 tram from Flinders Street Station to Brunswick to explore Sydney Road – the longest shopping strip in the southern hemisphere. But fewer would have ventured further along the busy arterial road into Coburg. Now, the Pentridge Precinct entices visitors to stay on the tram for a few extra stops.
For more than a century, no one in their right mind would want to go beyond the cold, imposing bluestone walls of Pentridge Prison. But since closing in 1997, the historic penitentiary has been transformed into a lively area that people visit for enjoyment, not internment.
In addition to the cinema, gallery, supermarket, art studios and beer hall, there’s now accommodation in the form of the 106-room Adina Apartment Hotel Pentridge and The Interlude, a boutique 19-room retreat.
Olivine Wine Bar and North & COMMON restaurant ensure guests are catered to with good food and wine.
Operated by the National Trust, Pentridge Prison Tours run day and night. Three tours share different stories from the infamous penitentiary that’s housed a who’s who of crims, including bushrangers such as Ned Kelly and Harry Power, gangsters such as Squizzy Taylor and larger-than-life local Mark ‘Chopper’ Read. If you can handle dark themes, the adults-only H Division Unlocked tour reveals the grim stories behind the brutal wing dubbed ‘Hell Division’.
In comparison to its hellish history, the Pentridge of today is pure heaven.
Travelling with: Taylah Darnell
Dromana Habitat captures the best of Victoria’s abundant Mornington Peninsula region and shares it with the world from the backstreets of an industrial estate. Those attending a workshop with one of 14 traders who call this precinct home will be welcomed by the sound of tinkering from Everwear Denim, crafting up a pair of new jeans. There’s also the unmistakable earthy aroma of hops from Australia’s first gluten-free brewery, TWØBAYS Brewing Co.
The makers at Dromana are not themselves new – in fact, many have called the precinct home for years. But their decision to connect and collaborate has resulted in a union that has catapulted the idiosyncratic artisanal collective into the spotlight. Whether it be a Sorrento Moon Cuvée Spritz masterclass with Rahona Valley Wines or a conversation with artisan cheesemaker Shaun Landman of BoatShed Cheese, you’ll leave Dromana feeling sanguine and sated.
Travelling with: Megan Arkinstall
Victoria’s immense Gippsland region encompasses a multiplicity of natural landscapes stretching from Melbourne’s eastern outskirts to the NSW border. You’ll find squeaky-clean beaches, windswept dunes and lichen-covered boulders in the region’s southernmost reaches at Wilsons Promontory – also farm-gate and winegrowing country.
East Gippsland, a region in the process of ECO Destination certification, is flush with rugged panoramas of gorges, rivers and waterfalls. You can double up on adventure at Mt Baw Baw: a mountain biking mecca in the warm months and a ski resort when it’s blanketed white. Or take a slower pace in geothermal waters at the newly opened Metung Hot Springs overlooking Gippsland Lakes, a network of sparkling waterways.
Travelling with: Laura Waters
There’s a reason why I upped sticks and moved an hour west from Melbourne to Geelong recently. It’s got everything you could want in a city but with palm trees and no parking issues. It’s a sunny, north-facing slice of the good life and it’s fast getting even better.
Consider the six AGFG hatted restaurants, with new contenders regularly springing up. Little Malop Street and Pakington Street have long been thriving dining and shopping precincts, but locals know that Belmont is the latest hip hood, where French pastries can be bought from That Place or Friday drinks from Archive Wine Bar. And when the architecturally stunning Geelong Arts Centre opens in full later this year with multiple theatres, it’ll be the largest regional arts centre in Australia. Yes, Geelong’s star is rising.
Travelling with: Laura Waters
“It’s always summer at the Sunnymead,” is the message at the Great Ocean Road’s newest hotel. Picture yellow beach umbrellas by the pool, Palm Springs style breeze-block walls and a curving tiled pool bar. Imagine cocktails and pizzas by the sunken fire pit; rooms stylish yet fun, complete with yoga mats, vintage-style radios, card games and travel books. There’s even a yellow VW Kombi at the ready for excursions.
It’s undoubtedly cool, but Sunnymead Hotel is more than just another retro motel transformation. This is a place to be savoured over several nights or more, a place to surrender yourself for a good time. To relax, eat, be pampered. After all, how often is hotel reception done at a day spa?
Indie Spa feels fancy enough to belong in a world-class wellness resort and big enough to spoil up to a dozen guests at once (ideal for sharing with friends). There’s the Rasul, a wraparound tiled steam room for body scrubs and mud treatments (brace yourself afterwards for the ice shower), and a bathhouse where up to four people can soak in rosemary- and pine-scented mud or bath milk; windows frame Zen-like greenery in both.
Then there are the three treatment rooms for massages and Vichy showers. It’s adult hedonism at its best. Wander through the arched glass entrance next door to enter Santara, a stylish and intimate restaurant where the menu weaves Indian influences into a contemporary offering – just try eating the crunchy bite-sized prawn pani puri with Yarra Valley caviar quietly.
Those who do manage to venture beyond the hotel’s perimeter will find no shortage of things to do. Smack bang between the bustling coastal resorts of Torquay and Lorne, Aireys Inlet offers the convenience of proximity to the region’s endless attractions – including perfect beaches and the walks and waterfalls of the Otway Ranges – but with a far quieter and more intimate vibe.
Regular visitors to Aireys will be well familiar with the popular Aireys Pub (live bands play on the grassy lawn every Saturday) and the iconic Greek restaurant a la grecque, but this little town is on the rise with new additions popping up. Places such as The Gin Kitchen, where you can sample Great Ocean Road Gin and nab a bowl of pipis in XO sauce, or Le Comptoir, which celebrates fi ne French fare and artisanal cheeses. Paintings, sculpture and glass art are among the treasures at Eagles Nest Fine Art Gallery.
Everything in Aireys is within walking distance, including the endless ocean panoramas presented from the cliff top trails of the Surf Coast Walk. You only need nip up a side street behind Sunnymead to slip onto this 44-kilometre trail, but just 15 minutes is all that’s needed to reach Split Point Lighthouse and several lookouts showcasing the dramatic sandstone stack of Eagle Rock, pounded by the sea.
The scones and cakes at The Lighthouse Tea Rooms, located within the old stables, are worth pausing for. Aireys’ joy lies in its intimate and relaxed vibe. Check in and chill out.
Travelling with: Carla Grossetti
Melbourne has added a few more jewels to its crown with the opening of three game-changing luxury hotels within the neat grid of the CBD. It’s a strong signal that the city is back in business. Visitors will appreciate the central location of The Ritz-Carlton Melbourne in Lonsdale Street, Le Méridien Melbourne in Bourke Street and Dorsett Melbourne, with its intuitively designed social spaces and beautifully appointed rooms in the hospitality hub that is West Side Place.
Head out from each hotel to explore hidden laneways, watch the sun go down from a rooftop bar and indulge in the richness of art and history on offer in Australia’s cultural capital.
Travelling with: Laura Waters
They’re a passionate bunch on Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula, producing everything from hand-crafted butter to smoked fish, olive oil and award-winning wines. Their mussels are so lauded they’ve landed in top restaurants around the world and now, fourth-generation farmer Lance Wiffen and wife Lizzie are lifting the veil with Portarlington Mussel Tours.
No expense has been spared in the refit of Valerie, a 40-year-old Huon pine trawler: the galley gleams, the fridge stocked with Bellarine sparkling. It’s perfect for an intimate tour that shows how mussels are cultivated, pulled off the lines, cleaned and most importantly, prepared.
Lizzie is a mussel master and guests get to enjoy the results of her cooking demonstration alongside a spread of other local produce. It’s an immersive way to savour one of the Bellarine’s gastronomic treasures, straight from the source.
Travelling with: Jo Stewart
For a town with a population of about 1000, Trentham’s food scene punches above its weight. From a pub meal by a crackling fireplace at the Cosmopolitan Hotel to a wholesome brunch at Trentham General, the pretty Victorian town just 75 minutes from Melbourne is a tried-and-true foodie escape. It’s now also a place to elevate your kitchen skills, with two highly respected culinary figures sharing their encyclopaedic knowledge with visitors lucky enough to nab a spot in their red-hot classes.
Malaysian-born Tony Tan came to Australia as a teenager and made his mark on the gastronomic world by operating restaurants in Sydney and Melbourne, running a cooking school and presenting episodes of SBS-TV’s Food Lovers’ Guide to Australia.
From his new base in Trentham, his highly sought-after, boutique cooking classes (capped at eight participants) are announced via his mailing list. Tony explains the ethos behind his teachings: “It’s a school of Asian excellence with a certain modernity and personal expressions along the way.” Expect to learn the secrets to making the perfect dumpling, sago pudding or radish cake before sitting down at Tony’s dining table to enjoy eight dishes (with wine, of course).
Local restaurateur Annie Smithers also teaches masterclasses sporadically throughout the year. The celebrated chef of du Fermier, owner of Babbington Park farm and champion of regional dining shares her knowledge with a select few via sell-out masterclasses that include a sit-down lunch and wine. Sign up to her mailing list and be ready to pounce once new classes are announced – they book out lightning fast.
Travelling with: Jo Stewart
If you haven’t been to Ballarat in a while, prepare to be surprised. An enduring school excursion and family holiday favourite (thanks to longstanding attractions such as Sovereign Hill and Kryal Castle), Ballarat has matured into a city where timeworn traditions are honoured in new ways.
Opened in late 2022, the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades is giving people from all over Australia a solid reason to revisit Victoria’s largest inland city. Riding a wave of interest in keeping traditional arts, crafts and trades alive, the hub is welcoming visitors to learn skills that have fallen by the wayside over the years.
Ever wondered how to plait straw into traditional harvest knots? How about crafting your own split cane fly-fishing rod or traditional English-style, horn-nocked self-longbow? (With reverse-twisted, Flemish-looped bowstrings, of course.)
If you hadn’t already guessed, there’s nothing paint-by-numbers about these workshops. After being taught by masters of the trade, you’ll walk away with much more than technical skills – you’ll get a geography, culture and history lesson too.
Elsewhere in town, new eateries open every month. Newcomers include Euro-inspired Ellington’s Wine Bar, old-world degustation experience Peasant and Earls Deli, which shares a building with sustainable community housing built by a not-for-profit. Earls takes the basics (sandwiches, condiments, coffee) and makes them shine. Try a classic Reuben sandwich or a culinary mashup such as a cacio e pepe toastie. The deli is easy to spot thanks to the restored jelly crystals sign on the wall above, a nod to a historic local business that may be gone but hasn’t been forgotten.
Travelling with: Elizabeth Whitehead
The Goulburn Valley may call to mind bottled fruit juice – but that’s not all there is to this Victorian food bowl. Tapping into its top-quality produce, artisanal products and fresh flavours deftly combined by local talent, Seasoned is the region’s new tasting trail. It allows visitors to get acquainted with the Goulburn Valley via their tastebuds, from farm gates to wineries and a bustling restaurant scene.
Follow any road radiating from Shepparton, and you’re bound to find the makers, bakers and culinary movers and shakers shaping its evolving reputation as a foodie enclave. There’s something to explore in every season, too. Enjoy a slow-cooked meal of ethically produced local meat in the winter or stop by in the summertime, when fruit sheds are chock-full.
Travelling with: Jo Stewart
Many people visit the high-drama 12 Apostles (or what’s left of the famous sea stacks that are gradually crumbling away). But a new social enterprise is inspiring another kind of awe and wonder.
Wildlife Wonders, just five kilometres from Apollo Bay, has it all: eucalypt forests rich with birdlife, free-ranging native mammals, accessible walking trails, passionate nature guides, blockbuster ocean views and excellent coffee (from Apollo Bay Roaster, Hello Coffee) at the on-site cafe.
More than a kilometre of feral predator-proof fencing provides a sanctuary for native fauna to freely roam, as nature intended. And the best part is that every visit to Wildlife Wonders supports the work of the Conservation Ecology Centre, a long-running not-for-profit organisation dedicated to boosting biodiversity in the Otways region via environmental research, habitat restoration and species recovery programs.
During a 75-minute guided walking tour through the habitat, you’ll get the chance to see some of Australia’s best-known animals (koalas, wallabies, emus and kangaroos) but there’s also plenty of other species you might not have encountered before, such as Tasmanian pademelons, eastern bettongs, southern brown bandicoots, long-nosed potoroos and the endangered Otways black snail, a carnivorous mollusc only found in the Otway Ranges.
All creatures great and small are honoured here, so next time you’re travelling along the Great Ocean Road, make a detour and take a walk on the wild side.
Travelling with: Imogen Eveson
The distinctive craggy mountains of the Grampians/Gariwerd range rise dramatically from pastoral plains, carving a landscape unique in Victoria and creating an environment ripe for outdoor pursuits.
Three hours’ drive west of Melbourne, this quietly achieving region is known as a hiking hotspot – and the launch of the 13-day Grampians Peaks Trail in late 2021 further cemented its status.
It’s an elemental kind of place. But you will feel connected to those elements no matter your pace of pursuit: whether scaling Mt Sturgeon/Wurgarri or sitting in its shadow at Wickens at the Royal Mail Hotel, tucking into a degustation made with veg freshly plucked from the kitchen garden.
You’ll feel it when taking a moment to sip pale ale in the sun at Paper Scissors Rock craft brewery in main hub Halls Gap. Or squirrelling away a bottle of local Fallen Giants shiraz and holing up in the region’s newest boutique accommodation (but 10 years in the planning), the lovingly handcrafted Nook on the Hill.
Travelling with: Emily Murphy
The Mildura–Wentworth region will soon hit the spotlight as renowned artist Bruce Munro, of Field of Light Uluru acclaim, develops Light/State, two incredible outdoor light installations across the NSW–Victoria border.
On either side of the Murray River, the Trail of Light and Fibre Optic Symphonic Orchestra installations will connect the communities and inspire visitors to reflect and engage with the stories, culture, history, landscape and individuality of this thriving border region from summer 2023.
If Munro’s previous art successes are anything to go by, Light/State is about to put this region firmly on the map.
Travelling with: Emily Murphy
The little-known Wimmera Mallee Silo Art Trail in Victoria’s wheatbelt is the largest outdoor gallery in Australia, stretching more than 700 kilometres. Head to the heart of the Mallee and base yourself in the town of Sea Lake. You’ll need a few days to properly admire the evolving art project, celebrate the region and explore iconic Lake Tyrrell, the state’s largest salt lake.
A team of renowned artists from across the globe visited the Wimmera Mallee region, immersed themselves in the community and transformed each grain silo into an epic work of art that tells a unique story about the host town. Extend the drive to see the Big Mallee Fowl sculptures in nearby Patchewollock.
Travelling with: Carla Grossetti
Abandoned railway tracks around Australia continue to be reimagined as recreational trails for cyclists. And riding along these corridors is one of the most popular ways to enjoy a join-the-dots jaunt through the countryside. NSW’s first true rail trail on an ex-government rail corridor sealed the deal for the small townships of Tumbarumba and Rosewood, when the first section of the pioneering Riverina Highlands Rail Trail opened in 2020.
The rail trail has put the Snowy Valleys region on the map, providing visitors with yet another excuse to hit the high country and explore this stunning subalpine region when it’s not dusted in snow. The trail is about 21 kilometres each way and includes interpretive signage about the history of the rail route and the region. There are also ample opportunities to cycle to cellar doors such as the award-winning Courabyra Wines, which is part of the Snowy Valleys Sculpture Trail.
A disused train line in South Gippsland has also increased opportunities for walkers and cyclists to explore southeastern Victoria. The Nyora to Leongatha route extends the Great Southern Rail Trail by 36 kilometres and includes plenty of inspired places to stop. According to Will Owens, Rail Trails Australia’s southern NSW representative, the trend to reimagine disused railway lines is gaining momentum in the state, led by demand from domestic and international visitors who are looking to see the landscape up close.
Riders looking for new routes should also check out the newly opened first stage of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail, which connects Murwillumbah with Crabbes Creek in NSW. There are also plans to connect Yarra Glen and Healesville to the Lilydale-Warburton rail trail as part of the multi-stage Yarra Valley Trail in country Victoria.
Travelling with: Carla Grossetti
Kunmanara Carroll was a Luritja, Pintupi and Pitjantjatjara man based in Pukatja/Ernabella in the Anangu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara (APY) Lands of South Australia. Until his passing in 2021, Carroll worked with clay and paint to form artworks that told stories about his ancestors, culture and identity.
A series of these earthy, organic vessels form part of the upcoming Kunmanara Carroll: Ngaylu Nyanganyi Ngura Winki (I Can See All Those Places) exhibition to be featured this year at the Shepparton Art Museum (SAM), which opened its doors in November 2021.
The artworks on show in the new $50 million Denton Corker Marshall-designed SAM are emblematic of the dynamic gallery scene now flourishing in regional Australia.
The newly transformed Central Goldfields Art Gallery in Maryborough is another cultural attraction drawing visitors to regional Victoria. The gallery reopened in March 2023 with the headline exhibition Ladder to the Stars: Dean Bowen Sculptures after undergoing a $2.28 million upgrade.
The reimagined 19th-century fire station is worth a visit in its own right. There is also a vibrant arts scene unfolding in the Bega Valley with the South East Centre for Contemporary Art (SECCA), the latest place-making attraction in regional NSW following the double-whammy openings of Bundanon and Ngununggula, Southern Highlands Regional Gallery in recent years.
The state-of-the-art SECCA gallery is set to open its doors soon after a major $3.5 million redevelopment and expansion. The art centre will be dedicated to nurturing local talent and acknowledging First Nations people while providing a platform for artists to express their diverse political, social and cultural beliefs. Whether classic, contemporary, cool or creative, gallery-hopping is an inspired way to connect an ever-widening audience of art lovers with regional communities. We’re all for it.
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